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In the mirror, I can see myself in oversized golden pantaloons, visible only to me. Youngsters relax in a rock pool imitating ocean creatures, while adjacent sits a talking pea in a showcase, next to a imposing pile of cushions. It embodies the domain of the beloved author (1805-1875), among the nineteenth-century's widely adored storytellers. I find myself in Odense, on the island of Funen in the southern region of Denmark, to investigate Andersen’s timeless impact in his birthplace 150 years after his death, and to discover a couple of fairytales of my own.

The Cultural Center: H.C. Andersen's House

HC Andersens Hus is the local exhibition space celebrating the author, incorporating his original residence. A curator explains that in past designs of the museum there was minimal emphasis on Andersen’s stories. Andersen's biography was studied, but The Ugly Duckling were nowhere to be found. For tourists who come to the city in search of narrative enchantment, it was somewhat disappointing.

The redesign of Odense city centre, rerouting a primary street, provided the opportunity to reconsider how the renowned native could be commemorated. A prestigious architectural challenge awarded Japanese firm Kengo Kuma and Associates the contract, with the curators’ new approach at the core of the design. The remarkable timber-clad museum with interwoven spiral spaces launched to great fanfare in 2021. “We’ve tried to design an environment where we move beyond simply describing Andersen, but we talk like Andersen: with wit, irony and outlook,” notes the expert. The landscape design follow this philosophy: “The outdoor area for wanderers and for colossal creatures, it's planned to create a feeling of diminutiveness,” he explains, an objective achieved by clever planting, manipulating verticality, proportion and numerous twisting trails in a unexpectedly limited space.

The Author's Influence

He authored several memoirs and often changed his story. HC Andersens Hus embraces this concept to heart; typically the perspectives of his acquaintances or fragments of written messages are presented to politely doubt the his narrative of happenings. “Andersen is the narrator, but he's untrustworthy,” notes the curator. The outcome is a compelling swift exploration of his personal story and work, thought processes and favorite narratives. This is provocative and fun, for adults and children, with a additional basement make-believe land, Ville Vau, for the children.

Exploring Odense

In the real world, the small city of the municipality is picturesque, with historic pathways and old wooden houses painted in cheerful shades. The Andersen legacy is everywhere: the traffic lights show the storyteller with his iconic top hat, brass footprints give a complimentary guided stroll, and there’s a art walk too. Annually in August this dedication peaks with the yearly HC Andersen festival, which marks the writer's impact through creativity, dance, stage shows and musical performances.

Recently, the week-long event had hundreds of events, most of which were free. As I explore this place, I encounter colorful performers on stilts, ghoulish monsters and an writer impersonator telling stories. I listen to empowering poetry and witness an incredible evening show with acrobatic dancers lowering from the city building and dangling from a mechanical arm. Still to come this year are talks, hands-on activities and, extending the storytelling legacy past the author, the city’s regular enchantment celebration.

All good enchanted locations require a palace, and Fyn contains numerous historic homes and stately homes across the island

Biking Adventures

As in much of the country, bicycles are the perfect means to navigate in Odense and a “cycling highway” winds through the downtown area. Departing from the local hotel, I pedal to the public waterside bathing area, then into the countryside for a circuit around the nearby islet, a tiny landmass joined by a bridge to the larger island. City residents relax with food here following their day, or enjoy a tranquil moment catching fish, aquatic activities or taking a dip.

In the city, I eat at Restaurant Under Lindetræet, where the culinary offerings is based on the writer's motifs and stories. The poem the patriotic piece is highlighted when I visit, and proprietor Nils Palmqvist reads extracts, translated into English, as he presents each course. This is a practice commonplace in my time in Odense, the local residents enjoy storytelling and it appears narrating is always offered here.

Castle Explorations

All good enchanted locations deserve a fortress, and Fyn contains numerous historic homes and stately homes throughout the region. Taking day trips from town, I visit the historic fortress, Europe’s best-preserved Renaissance water castle. Although large sections are available for tours, the castle is also the family home of the noble family and his wife, the princess. I contemplate if she would notice a small legume through a pile of {mattresses