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While preparing a cookbook on pasta, a contact originally from Naples suggested approaching lasagne as if it were architectural layout. The idea is to start by calculating the measurements of your casserole pan relative to the pasta sheets, then plan out the layer count to adequately balance the fillings. It was also agreed that constructing a lasagne should combine the methodical approach of a stonemason with the expressive technique of Jackson Pollock when layering the sauces.

Preparing the Pasta Sheets

A typical lasagne dish comes in at 12 by 8 inches, and a set of three standard-sized dried lasagne sheets make up a complete tier. To prepare a multi-tiered lasagne, you’ll need approximately 15 sheets. Most modern dried lasagne does not require soaking in advance, but the noodles rely on a moist enough sauce to soften adequately. Given that today’s version uses a thick and rich sauce, it’s best to briefly dip the sheets in boiling water for half a minute, then transfer them into ice water and arrange them on a clean cloth to remove excess moisture. This method reduces the total baking time, which helps preserve the soft consistency of the courgette and ricotta filling.

Selecting Your Cheeses

Mindful of the current cost of cheese—along with what might be available in your fridge—this recipe offers a range of portions for the ricotta, parmesan and either taleggio or asiago. Feel free to swap in other cheeses based on what you have on hand, and adjust with ample salt and pepper and aromatic greens. The key to deepening the savor, however, is beginning by cooking the chopped squash in olive oil with a a bit of salt. This step isn’t meant to overcook them—as they continue cooking in the baking process, merging with the white sauce and dairy which serves as a structural element for the lasagne.

Letting It Set

I firmly believe, lasagne is consistently enhanced if you allow it to sit for no less than a short while before cutting into—or even an hour in a slightly heated spot. This pause allows the flavors to settle and the whole lasagne—notably the melted cheese—to set properly. As a result, it divides easily into portions. And of course, the final slice enjoyed the next day is often the best part.

Three-Cheese & Summer Squash Pasta Bake

Feeds 4-6

15 dried lasagne sheets, sufficient to make a stacked dish

3 tbsp good-quality oil, additional for oiling the dish

3 large or 4 medium zucchinis, cubed into bite-size chunks

Sea salt and pepper

One package fresh ricotta

1 heaped tbsp freshly minced oregano

3 ounces butter, and more for scattering

70g plain flour

800ml rich milk

Nutmeg

2-3 ounces Parmigiano-Reggiano, finely grated

100-200g taleggio or asiago, cubed pieces

Two tablespoons toasted crumbs

Instructions

Prepare the noodles following the package directions; when briefly boiling them, set them on clean towels until ready to use.

Heat the oil in a pan over a steady burner, then sauté the cubed courgettes with a pinch of salt, moving them around until they just begin to soften. Remember they will keep cooking in the oven, so remove from heat and set aside for 10 minutes. Mix in the ricotta, herbs and another pinch of salt.

Warm the dairy butter in a pan, then incorporate the white flour and combine to make a roux. Bit by bit add in the milk and simmer, whisking continuously, until the creamy sauce coats the spoon. Flavor with seasonings, a pinch of nutmeg and a bit of the grated parmesan.

Coat the base of an oven dish with oil, add a bit of the white sauce, then make a base layer of dried lasagne sheets. Spread another level using a fifth of the sauce, topped with one part of the courgette and ricotta, a quarter of the cubed cheese and a handful of grated cheese. Repeat with another noodle tier, then continue layering until used up, topping with a top tier of lasagne. Top that with the remaining bechamel, the breadcrumbs and small butter pieces, then place in oven at 200C (180C fan)/390F for 20 to 30 mins, or until the sides are golden and the crust is beautifully baked.